In short: a home driving simulator is made up of five elements: wheelbase, steering wheel, pedals, support (desk or cockpit) and platform (PC or console). The direct drive wheelbase is now the standard for anyone looking for faithful force feedback, while the pedals are the component with the biggest impact on consistency on track. In this guide you will find what each element is for, how to choose it without wasting budget, and how much the complete setups in our catalogue cost.

Anyone getting into sim racing faces dozens of wheelbases, steering wheels and pedal sets, with acronyms and numbers that are hard to compare. The aim of this guide is to give you a method: understand which components you really need, in what order to choose them and where it pays to invest. You won't find a brand ranking here, because the right choice depends on your platform, space, budget and the type of driving you're interested in.

In this guide

1. What you need for a home driving simulator
2. The wheelbase: why direct drive has become the standard
3. The steering wheel: rims and attachment systems
4. The pedals: the component that makes the difference
5. Shifter and handbrake: when you need them
6. Desk or cockpit?
7. The screen: monitor, triple setup or headset
8. PC, PlayStation or Xbox
9. Software, updates and support
10. How much does a home driving simulator cost?
11. Mistakes to avoid and where to start
12. Frequently asked questions

What you need for a home driving simulator

A driving simulator is not a single product, but a set of peripherals that work together. The minimum you need to drive is a wheelbase with a steering wheel and a set of pedals; everything else improves the experience, but can be added over time.

Individual components or a bundle?

You can build your simulator by buying each component separately, or start from a direct drive bundle. A bundle brings together a wheelbase, steering wheel and sometimes pedals from the same ecosystem, already compatible with each other: it's the simplest choice if you're just starting out. Individual components make sense when you already know what you want, for example a specific formula rim or a set of pedals from a higher tier than the wheelbase.

The wheelbase: why direct drive has become the standard

The wheelbase is the heart of the simulator: it houses the motor that transmits the forces calculated by the game to the steering wheel, in other words the force feedback. It's force feedback that lets you feel the weight of the steering, the kerb under your wheels, and understeer when you enter a corner too fast.

Direct drive, belt and gear

There are three ways of transferring the motor's force to the steering wheel:

• Gear: the motor turns the steering wheel through a set of gears. It's an inexpensive solution, but gears tend to make the force feedback less smooth.
• Belt: the motor transmits the force via a belt and pulleys. Movement is smoother than with gears, but the belt dampens some of the detail.
• Direct drive: the steering wheel is mounted directly on the motor shaft, with nothing in between. The force feedback arrives as it is, with more detail and a faster response.

That's why direct drive has become the benchmark in sim racing: all the wheelbases in the Direct Drive Wheelbases collection use this technology. In our catalogue you'll find wheelbases from Fanatec, MOZA Racing, Simagic, Simucube, Conspit and PXN, from entry level to the professional range.

How much torque do you really need?

Torque, expressed in Nm (newton metres), indicates the maximum force the wheelbase can apply to the steering wheel. It's the number that catches your eye first, but more Nm doesn't automatically mean a better experience. Fanatec writes that 8 Nm is generally more than enough for most racing situations, and notes that some drivers with an 8 Nm wheelbase still turn the force down to 6-7 Nm. It adds a useful detail: a smaller, lighter steering wheel makes the force feedback feel more intense.

Higher torque gives you headroom: it reproduces heavy cars and sudden force spikes more realistically, and leaves room when you use large rims. In return it requires a more solid mounting (see the section on the cockpit) and costs more. You'll find torque ranges, attachment systems and management software in the direct drive wheelbase guide.

A few examples of wheelbases in our catalogue, with the torque stated in the name or on the product page:

The range is completed by, among others, the MOZA Racing R9 (V3) (€319), MOZA Racing R12 (V2) (€419), PXN VD6 (€339), Simagic Alpha EVO Pro (€849) and, in the professional range, the Simucube 3 Sport (from €1,259), Simucube 3 Pro (from €1,509) and Simucube 3 Ultimate (from €3,259).

What to look at beyond Nm

• Ecosystem: each brand has its own attachment system for steering wheels and its own peripherals. Choosing one also shapes your future purchases.
• Platform: not all wheelbases work on console. If you play on PlayStation or Xbox, compatibility comes before any other feature.
• Mounting: check whether the wheelbase can be mounted on a desk (dedicated brackets exist for some) or whether it requires a cockpit.
• Software: every manufacturer offers a program to adjust force, rotation angle and filters. That's where you tailor the force feedback to your taste.

The steering wheel: rims and attachment systems

With direct drive wheelbases, the steering wheel, also called the rim, is often bought separately. It attaches to the wheelbase with a quick release system that lets you swap it in seconds: you can keep a round rim for GT and rally and a formula rim for single-seaters, and mount them on the same wheelbase.

The main shapes

• Round: modelled on the steering wheel of road cars and GT cars. They are the most versatile and the best suited if you drive different categories or do rally and drift, where you need a lot of steering lock.
• D-shaped (D-shape): round with a flat bottom, like many closed-wheel racing cars.
• Formula: compact and packed with controls, designed for single-seaters, where the steering turns very little and your hands always stay in the same position.

What changes from one rim to another

• Paddle shifters: almost all rims have them; what varies is the material, travel and the feel of the click.
• Clutch paddles: some rims have two additional paddles for the clutch (often referred to as dual clutch paddles), useful for race starts in racing cars.
• Buttons, encoders and display: more controls at your fingertips are especially useful in long races, where you adjust brake bias, engine maps and traction control without taking your hands off the wheel.
• Diameter and weight: these affect the driving feel. As Fanatec points out, a smaller, lighter rim makes the force feedback feel more intense.

The attachment system and compatibility

Each brand has its own quick release system. Rims from the same ecosystem as the wheelbase mount without adapters; to use a rim from a different brand you need to check that a compatible adapter exists, and if in doubt it's best to ask before buying.

A few examples of rims in our catalogue, starting from the most affordable:

The pedals: the component that makes the difference

If there's one component that affects the consistency of your lap times, it's the pedals, and in particular the brake pedal. Braking at the same point and with the same intensity every time is what makes a lap repeatable.

Types of pedals

• Travel-based pedals: the sensor measures how far the pedal moves. They are the simplest and most affordable, and are fine for getting started.
• Load cell pedals: on the brake, a load cell measures how hard you press, not the travel. As Simucube explains, in real driving you brake by modulating force and, over time, your muscles memorise how much pressure is needed: that's why braking becomes more repeatable lap after lap.
• Hydraulic pedals: they reproduce the behaviour of a hydraulic braking system, with a feel close to that of a real car.
• Active pedals: a motor varies the pedal's resistance based on what's happening in the game. They are the most advanced and most expensive solution.

Some pedal sets can be upgraded with haptic motors, which make the pedal vibrate to signal, for example, wheel lock-up: in our catalogue you'll find haptic motors for Simagic P1000 and P2000.

Two or three pedals?

The third pedal is the clutch. You need it if you drive classic or road cars with a manual H-pattern gearbox; for modern cars with paddle shifters, throttle and brake are enough. Many pedal sets come in both versions, for example the Simagic P700 2 pedals (€229) and Simagic P700 3 pedals (€259).

To compare all the available models, browse the Sim Racing Pedals collection.

Shifter and handbrake: when you need them

Modern racing cars are driven with paddle shifters on the steering wheel, so a shifter and handbrake aren't essential to get started. They become useful, and great fun, if you're interested in rally, drift or classic cars.

• Sequential shifter: a lever you push forwards and pull back to change down and up through the gears, typical of rally and many competition cars. Examples from our catalogue: MOZA SGP (€149) and Simagic Q1S (€289); you'll find the others in the Sequential Shifters collection.
• H-pattern shifter: reproduces the gate of road and classic cars and is used together with the clutch pedal. Example: MOZA HGP (€159).
• Handbrake: essential in rally and drift to rotate the car through hairpins. Examples: MOZA HBP (€119) and Simagic TB-RS (€329).

Some products are also available as a pair, such as the Simagic TB-RS + Q1S (€599).

Desk or cockpit?

The wheelbase must be fixed to something solid: the force feedback pushes the steering wheel in every direction and, if the support moves, some of the force is lost and the driving becomes imprecise.

On a desk

Many wheelbases can be mounted on a sturdy desk with dedicated brackets, for example the Fanatec CSL DD table clamp (€54) or the one for the Fanatec ClubSport DD (€119); for MOZA and Simagic wheelbases there are the Moza table mounting brackets (€79). It's a valid solution for getting started, especially with moderate torque, if you're short on space or want to be able to dismantle everything at the end of a session.

The limits become apparent as force increases: the desktop can flex, the office chair slides back when you push on the pedals, and your driving position changes every time you reassemble everything.

On a dedicated cockpit

A cockpit solves these limitations:

• the wheelbase, pedals and seat always stay in the same position, so you find the same reference points every session;
• the frame stays stable even with high torque;
• it withstands the push of load cell pedals, whose brake requires more force than travel-based pedals;
• it lets you mount a shifter, handbrake and monitor stand in the right positions.

ARC SIM cockpits, our own line, are built from aluminium profiles: the ARC SIM GT-M, with 80×40 profiles and a seat included, starts from €599; the ARC SIM GT-X, with 135×45 profiles, from €909. If you want to start from a ready-made complete setup, there are bundles that include the cockpit, such as the ARCSIM GT-M + Gran Turismo DD Pro (8 Nm) (€1,348).

The screen: monitor, triple setup or headset

The screen determines how much of the track you see and how immersed you feel in the cockpit. There are three options:

• A single monitor: this is the starting point and often what you already have. What matters is positioning it as close as possible to the steering wheel, at eye level.
• Triple monitors: they widen your side view, useful for seeing opponents alongside you and the apex in tight corners. They require more space, a dedicated stand and a suitable graphics card.
• VR headset: it offers the most realistic sense of depth and takes up little space on the cockpit, but it requires a powerful PC and not everyone finds it comfortable to wear for long periods.

If you use a cockpit, a monitor stand keeps the screen at the right distance: you'll find compatible models in the ARC SIM monitor stands section.

PC, PlayStation or Xbox

The platform should be chosen before the wheelbase, because not all peripherals work everywhere. It's the decision that, more than any other, narrows or widens your choice.

PC

PC is the platform with the most simulators available and the widest choice of peripherals: it's the benchmark for direct drive wheelbase manufacturers. It also lets you use triple monitors or a VR headset and adjust every detail in the manufacturers' software. If you also need the computer, you'll find a few sim racing PCs in our catalogue. To choose your wheelbase and steering wheel, the guide to the best steering wheel for PC has 16 setups divided by price range.

PlayStation

On PlayStation, only peripherals with official console support will work. For example, the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro (8 Nm) is the official wheelbase for PlayStation 5 and PS4 and is also available in the Gran Turismo DD Pro (5 Nm) bundle (€649), which includes CSL pedals and a table clamp, and the Gran Turismo DD Pro (8 Nm) bundle (€749).

Xbox

On Xbox too, you need console-compatible peripherals: one example from our catalogue is the MOZA R3 Bundle Xbox (€359), officially licensed for Xbox, which is distinct from the MOZA R3 Bundle PC (€299).

Before buying, always check the product page for the compatibility of the wheelbase, steering wheel and pedals with your platform.

Software, updates and support

Once everything is connected, the simulator needs to be configured. Every manufacturer provides software for its own wheelbase, which you use to adjust the maximum force, the steering wheel's rotation angle, the force feedback filters and the pedal response. The same software installs firmware updates, which often improve the behaviour of the peripherals over time.

Two practical tips:

• Start from the recommended settings from the manufacturer or the game, then change one parameter at a time: it's the only way to understand what is improving.
• Turn the force down at first: a direct drive wheelbase can deliver far more force than a traditional steering wheel. It's better to increase it gradually.

When you buy from Direct Drive Italia, you get technical support and a 2-year warranty on all products, both based in Italy. If you have any questions about setup and compatibility, you can contact us.

How much does a home driving simulator cost?

The cost depends on three choices: the wheelbase tier, the type of pedals and whether you use a desk or a cockpit. The clearest way to understand it is to look at the ready-made setups in our catalogue, from the most affordable to professional.

The exact contents of each bundle are listed on the product page: some include pedals, others only the wheelbase and steering wheel. When pedals aren't included, you need to add them separately (see the section on pedals).

You'll find all the available combinations in the Direct Drive Bundles collection.

Mistakes to avoid

1. Choosing the wheelbase before the platform. On console the choice is limited: checking compatibility saves you from having to buy again.
2. Looking only at Nm. A powerful wheelbase with cheap pedals and unstable mounting performs worse than a balanced setup.
3. Mixing brands without checking the attachments. Rims, wheelbases and peripherals from different brands can coexist, but you need to check mounts and adapters before buying.
4. Underestimating the mounting. A desk that flexes or a chair that slides costs you precision, whatever the wheelbase.
5. Putting off the pedals indefinitely. They are the component with the biggest impact on braking consistency.

Where to start: a five-step path

1. Platform and space: decide what you play on and whether the simulator will stay set up or needs to be taken down after every session.
2. Wheelbase and steering wheel: choose an ecosystem, or start from a bundle that brings them together, already compatible.
3. Pedals: if your budget allows, go straight for load cell pedals; otherwise they're the first upgrade to plan.
4. Cockpit: when the torque goes up or the desk is no longer enough, a cockpit makes your driving stable and consistent every time.
5. Extras: shifter, handbrake, additional rims and screens come last, depending on the categories you drive.

Frequently asked questions

What is a home driving simulator?

A set of peripherals (wheelbase with steering wheel, pedals and optionally a shifter, handbrake and cockpit) connected to a PC or console. They reproduce the controls and force feedback of a real car in simulation games.

Is a direct drive wheelbase or a belt-driven wheel better?

In a direct drive wheelbase the steering wheel is mounted directly on the motor, with no belts or gears. The force feedback is more direct and detailed. The direct drive wheelbases in our catalogue start from around €320.

How much does the cheapest driving simulator in your catalogue cost?

At the time of writing, the most affordable bundle is the MOZA R3 Bundle PC, at €299. Complete setups with a cockpit start from around €1,350.

Do you really need a cockpit?

No. Many wheelbases can be fixed to a sturdy desk with dedicated brackets. A cockpit becomes advisable with higher torque, with load cell pedals or if you want to find the same driving position every time.

Does a driving simulator work on PS5 or Xbox?

Yes, but only with console-compatible peripherals, such as the Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro for PlayStation or the MOZA R3 Bundle Xbox. Always check compatibility on the product page.

Can I use a steering wheel and wheelbase from different brands?

Sometimes yes, with the right adapter, but it isn't always possible. Before buying, check the attachment system of both the wheelbase and the rim.

Which component should I start with?

A wheelbase, steering wheel and pedals are the minimum you need to drive, and a bundle avoids compatibility issues. The first upgrade we recommend planning is load cell pedals; a shifter, handbrake and cockpit can be added later.

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Ready to choose your first setup? Browse the direct drive bundles or start from the direct drive wheelbases. If you have any questions about your setup, get in touch with our support team.